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ABOUT MOROCCO - FES

The oldest of the imperial cities, Fès is arguably the symbolic heart of Morocco. Its labyrinthine streets and crumbling grandeur add to its air of intrigue and self-importance. The medina of Fès el-Bali (Old Fès) is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world and the gates and walls that surround it make it all the more magnificent. Unlike many walled cities of this vintage, Old Fès hasn't burst its banks. The population has instead exploded out towards the south-west and spread to the hillsides in an arc stretching north and south of the new city.

Within the old city, tucked among roughly 9,400 streets and alleys, is the towering Medersa Bou Inania, a theological college built in 1350. Not far from here the henna souq is a market specialising in the dye used for colouring hair and tattooing women' hands and feet. Next door to the old walled city is Fès el-Jdid, home to the city's Jewish community and many spectacular buildings. In between the two self-contained cities is the Dar Batha, now the Museum du Batha. Fès is best reached by train from Rabat, Marrakesh or Tangier.

What to see in Fès

Tanneries
Fès is famous for its leather products and most of it comes from the leather bazaar (souq) in old Fès. The tanneries have been in operation since medieval times and little has changed, which makes them absolutely fascinating to visit.

In order to visit the tanneries you have to head into a leather shop. This is not just an excuse for your guide to make a little commission off of your visit. The best views of the tanneries are from the roofs these shops. You will not be forced to buy anything. It is however normal to give the salesperson, who will hand you a sprig of mint, a small tip. Sprigs of fresh mint are essential when you visit the tanneries since the animal hides are stinky, and the pigeon poop they're treated in doesn't smell so good either. It's best to visit the tanneries in the morning because the different colored dyes are at their most vivid and make for some great photos. A salesperson will give you the rundown on how the hides are treated and what dyes come from what plants.

Kairaouine Mosque
Tucked deep into the heart of the medina, the Kairaouine Mosque is huge but you can barely get a good glimpse of its size because it's simply wedged in between hundreds of shops and homes. 20,000 people can pray here but unless you're a Muslim, you won't be able to go inside. However, since the Mosque has recently opened up again after extensive renovations, when the doors are open tourists can peek in and marvel at the beautiful tile work. The library here is one of the most important and oldest in the world.

Museums
There are 3 museums in old Fès that are worth visiting and offer a place to get some rest from the bustle of the streets.

The Nejarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts is in a beautiful building with a nice little rooftop cafe.

The Dar Batha Museum has a very interesting display of artwork, especially if you enjoy the traditional blue-colored pottery Fès is famous for.

The Belghazi Museum offers similar artwork to Dar Batha, but you can buy it here if you like! The museum is housed inside a palace and is a good, if pricey, place to enjoy some lunch.

Medersas
There are two Medersas (religious schools) worth visiting in old Fès.

The Medersa Bou Inania was built in the 1300's and has some beautiful examples of Merenid plasterwork and woodwork.

Medersa el-Attarine is also filled with examples of excellent Merenid craftsmanship and offers fantastic views of the old city from its rooftop.

The Mellah
 The Mellah is the old Jewish quarter of Fès and you can tell the architecture differs from the rest of the medina. Houses with balconies and windows overlooking the streets are very un-Muslim like. The Jewish cemetery is quite eye-popping here with white tombstones heading down the side of a hill as far as the eye can see.

Merenid Tombs
The Merenid Tombs are situated outside the walls of old-Fès and you see them from most rooftops in Fès. Tourists traditionally head up the hill to the tombs to get a good view of Fès as the sun sets.

 

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