The fourth of the imperial cities, Rabat is a curious mix of a long past and a highly modernised present. The city's glory days were in the 12th century, when the then sultan used the kasbah (citadel) as a base for campaigns against the Spanish. It was during this time that the city's most famous landmarks sprang up. A haven for Muslims driven out of Spain in the early 17th century and a capital city only since the days of French occupation, Rabat's ambience comes from Islam and Europe in fairly equal proportions. For every place of worship there are three or four European-style cafes. Few of Rabat's residents are involved in the tourist racket, which means you can stroll through the markets without having to brace yourself against too much high-pressure salesmanship.

The city's most famous site is the Tour Hassan, the incomplete minaret of the great mosque begun by Yacoub al-Mansour. An earthquake brought construction to a halt in 1755. Alongside is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the present king's father. The Kasbah des Oudaias, built on the bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, houses a former palace which is now a museum of traditional art. Beyond the city walls are the remains of the ancient city of Sala. Also known as Chella, it has Morocco's best Archaeology Museum.

Between the city's landmark central park (Jardins Triangle de Vue) and the main train station are most of Rabat's hotels and eating spots. The most obvious cluster of cafes and bars here offer up all the beer, kababs, pizza, olives and ice cream you might need. The Mohammed V international airport is a short ride east of the city and there are plenty of shuttle buses.

What to see in Rabat

Royal Palace
The Royal Palace, official residence of King Hassan II of Morocco, is a sumptuous building constructed upon the ruins of an 18th century palace.

Mohammed V Mausoleum
Construction on this royal mausoleum, dedicated to Sultan Mohammed V-the man who led Morocco to independence-started in 1962. The imposing structure of white marble was completed in 1967, providing a tangible icon of post-independence Morocco.

Hassan Tower
Situated on the expansive square opposite the Mausoleum of Sultan Mohammed V, the 44-metre tall Hassan Tower, which stretches out above Rabat, is one of the country's national symbols.

Kasbah of the Oudayas
Still the old heart of Rabat, this ancient Kasbah is named after the tribe who were sent here by Sultan Moulay Ishmail to defend the city against Andalusian attacks.

Chellah Necropolis
Ruins meet nature in this 14th century necropolis overrun by trees, plants and animals. A park and archaeological site at once, the Chellah Necropolis occupies the site of the ancient Roman town of Sala.

Mamora Forest
Here, within short distance to Rabat, 134,000 hectares of cork-oak forest, pine groves, wild pear trees and eucalyptus offer an oasis of peace where only the call of birds disturbs the tranquillity.

Potter's Village
A favourite with visitors, this is a real, living village dedicated entirely to this age-old art. Ask for anything and the master craftsmen will produce it with amazing speed and precision.